Let us take a break from the demoralising narratives today. I’m missing pastimes when life was simpler, easier, and cheaper. Before 2020 when Thailand was a wilder, freer, more relaxed destination. I’ve dug out some old photos to tell you about Khao Chang Phueak Mountain, bordering on Kanchanaburi and Myanmar. I visited this wonderous place in December 2018.
Getting there
Using Bangkok as a departure point of reference, the mountain is located deep into Kanchanaburi province - it took us about 7 hours to drive there including stops and some heavy traffic. Tourists can take a bus from Bangkok’s Mo Chit bus station to Sangkhla Buri (Kanchanaburi) then negotiate a taxi or minivan to go the rest of the way to Thong Pha Phum national park (about another hour’s drive).
Khao Chang Phueak Mountain is part of Thong Pha Phum national park, which is adjacent to a border town between Thailand and Myanmar - Pilok village. We passed through the village to reach the meeting point for our trekking group before getting picked up by the guides.
At that time, the mountain trekking was only open to the public during December. It was tough securing a spot; limited to 60 visitors per day. We had to call the park landline over 100 times before getting through, as so many people were clamoring to hit the trail.
There’s also the option of paying for a local porter service to carry your bags up the mountain. I remember it being very reasonably priced per kilogram of weight. Some of those guys were in their fifties, but absolutely shredded. It was worthwhile paying a bit more for them to help set up the tents and provide basic cooking gear during the trek. It was all so inexpensive that we tipped our guides and the porters generously.
🥾The trek
The signage along the way was interesting and certainly got a smirk out of us…
Those last three points:
Do not drink beverages containing alcohol hall
Do not gamble all
If there is any illness or unsafe, immediately inform the competent.
My accompanying friend visiting from the UK said that as I wasn’t competent, he should take point as our unofficial leader. This was dangerous misinformation. He was equally if not more reckless than your correspondent.
Way down at the bottom of the hill when we were eager, fresh, invigorated and as yet unbitten by insects, we spotted a local dwelling before the expanse opened up to sublime greenery and thick vegetation all around.
It was pretty hard going with a moderate level of fitness necessary to complete the 3-4 hour trek to the campsite before the peak. We spent one night at the campsite before finishing the final ascent the following morning.
I saw the guides rustling up a fire en route to cook their snacks and immediately retrieved an emergency big-soup can from my rucksack. They thought it was hilarious when I produced my miniature cooking pot.
We had a mixed bag of clear skies and rays of welcome sunlight poking through the clouds, followed by dense fog immersing us in blanketed low visibility.
It was staggering how many people “bitched out” at this juncture, citing safety concerns. I overhead a British lady saying:
“This would never fly in Europe, where are all the safety railings?! Let’s turn back!”
Well, I guess that’s what makes Thailand Thailand. Climb at your own risk. As you can see, slipping off the edge of this rock ‘n’ rope obstacle would mean, *ahem* certain death. Possibly. Probably. We asked the tour guides if anyone had ever met their maker on the trek and they exchanged nervous glances before giggling. Then they informed us that a Belgian gentleman had tumbled off the edge whilst taking a selfie recently.
Classic tourist faux-pas on the mountain.
Apparently he got away with a broken leg and some bruises.
Near the summit, it blew our minds how we could almost make out a perfect line where the mist ended and visibility cleared.
The only minor regret we had at the campsite was not having brought our own tents. We had paid to use tents provided by the national park guides. Those tents had clearly seen a few treks and were a bit worse for wear. Without an airbed, we made do with sleeping mats, which weren’t ideal, owing to how rocky the bumpy ground was underneath.
The clearest night sky I have ever witnessed in my life made up for the tent discomfort. The stars appeared to be huge, burning fiercely bright with an ephemeral glow as darkness fell, to the backdrop of a sleeping mountainous giant that we called home for one night only. A photograph would never do that night sky justice, so I suppose you’ll just have to go and see it for yourself, won’t you?
When two ageing breakdancers go up a mountain, tricks, flips, handstands, and head-spins generally tend to ensue. It breaks up the journey a bit. Although you should not attempt to recreate these moves on any mountain…
How to book this trip
Khao Chang Phueak opens for the public from October – February. On occasion, tourists will not be able to trek due to poor weather conditions, and danger from wild elephants.
Steps to book the tour at Khao Chang Phueak
The park restricts treks to a total of 60 visitors per day.
Booking is available by calling the national park at +66982520359. Phone lines are open between 8.00 am. and 4.30 pm local time (GMT+7), inclusive of the holidays. Up to 5 visitors may be registered when reserving your spot.
The park has a Facebook page too.
Did that lift your spirits a wee bit? Potentially made you want to be in the great outdoors and take a break from fearporn and electronic devices? Surely worth chucking a few baht over here to help keep the lights on in Creed’s dungeon!
Virtual coffees and cryptocurrency donations are hugely appreciated.
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I am so laughing on the English translations on those signs. That whole thing is very meme worthy! In fact I might share the picture if you don't mind with my next meme set...